HTM’s Style Revival #002: Bloomers!

Bloomers were first conceptualized by Elizabeth Smith Miller of Peterboro, NY, and then popularized by temperance advocate Amelia Bloomer in the early 1850’s (thus deriving their name). Traditionally long baggy undergarments worn under skirts or dresses, bloomers narrow at the ankle in order to close off exposure to the legs. At the time, women were becoming much more physically and socially active in the public sphere, yet still needed to retain some semblance of Victorian modesty. Therefore, women seeking social and legal equality, temperance, and abolition tended to wear these “reform costumes” as functional means to break from the domesticity of the home. Because bloomers were often worn by progressive (usually upper-class) female activists, newspapers and the moral-majority typically used the bloomer as a means to ridicule and chastise early feminist efforts. Thusly, to be called a ‘bloomer’ at the time was typically considered an insult.

The latter half of the 19th century saw the traditional bloomer evolve for the sake of athletic functionality. The closed-off ankle cuff on bloomers moved up to the knee and the lower leg was then covered with a stocking, creating a baggy trouser that allowed for easier mobility (mainly for bicycling, gymnastics, horseback riding, etc.). The ‘male’ versions of these pants were called “knickerbockers” (though the terms are sometimes used interchangeably despite gender. For example, female underpants were often referred to as ‘knickers.’ Additionally, a Bloomington, Illinois minor league baseball team in the early 1900’s was called “the bloomers” despite being an all-male team). Regardless, these new bloomers provided a means for women to play sports, while not exposing themselves, yet appear as if they were still wearing a skirt. For men (and women, I suppose) the bagginess of the pants preserved the modesty of the time by providing enough pants-space so that one’s nasty bits got lost in the excess fabric.

Of course, as time progressed bloomers became shorter and shorter, and eventually tighter and tighter. By the 1940’s and 50’s traditional bloomers were rarely seen (replaced by straight slacks and form fitting skirts). In fact, the only place one would likely see bloomers at this time would be as athletic attire for young girls in gym classes. Then the 1960’s counter-culture movement pretty much killed off the appeal and social necessity of bloomers completely.

Today, bloomers are still considered an obscure fashion remnant of an overly conservative past. Nonetheless, the style and flare for bloomers has found a slight resurgence in popularity amongst female Japanese teenagers. Contemporary Japanese versions of bloomers are called “burumas,” which are essentially puffy shorts that leave most of the leg exposed. They were originally designed as athletic wear for young girls but have become somewhat commonplace fashion. Westerners often confuse burumas with underwear; however, they are intended to be worn on the outside of one’s undergarments. For those looking to re-live the past, traditional bloomers can still sometimes be found in vintage clothing stores. I was once at a college house party wherein the female host (after much celebrating with various libations) went around lifting her skirt, thereby exposing her vintage polka dot pantaloons and yelling, “Bloomers!”

Finally, we here at HTM would like to give a shout-out to an all together different kind of bloomer. Outback Steakhouse claims to have first invented the “Blooming Onion” in 1988 when the chain first opened its doors. A popular restaurant appetizer, the 'blooming onion' or 'onion blossom' consists of one large deep-fried Vidalia onion which is cut to resemble a blossoming flower. In 2008, Men's Health magazine named Chili's "Awesome Blossom" as the "worst appitizer in America," citing its nutritional value (rather than taste) as the reason. The magazine contends that the dish contains 2.710 calories, 203 grams of fat, and 6,360 mg's of sodium (the heath equivalent eating 67 strips of bacon) ... Delicious!